By Katie
Just a few days ago, I switched from Pride of Baltimore II to the Canadian brigantine St. Lawrence II, and sailing on a different ship for the first time is equal parts familiar and wildly different. Though I knew the names and functions of many of the lines, I find that small differences constantly trip me up, from going aloft with a different harness to simply not knowing all of the commands that come naturally to so many of the SL2 crew members.
Luckily for me, however, SL2 is a training ship, and many of the oncoming trainees were just as “green” as I was, having never sailed before. As such, not only are there plenty of crew members that are aboard almost solely to help out newbies, the entire ship is built on the basis of helping people learn how to sail, with a smaller rig that allows you to see exactly how your line affects the rest of the sails. Though the learning curve is still undoubtedly steep on this ship, I find that it’s slightly less than on Pride of Baltimore II.
Moreover, because trainees are younger (13-18 years old), SL2 has a very different environment, making the ship more like a hardcore summer camp (as it’s so often described by the captain and first mate). While off watch, crew mates film TikToks rather than read books, and at the end of every day, we have a sunset ceremony where we line up and sing/shout songs and chants, broken up by laughs from the rest of the crew. Energy here is at a high all of the time, and it’s infectious. I often find myself getting doused in it, not unlike the bow when we hit a large wave and anyone out on the headrig goes for an unexpected swim. Additionally, because SL2 is a Canadian vessel, I’m the only American. In just a few days, I’ve gotten a crash course in Canadian politics, food, geography, and television. Though I can’t say being on a Canadian vessel is very different from American one, I can testify that there is significantly more maple syrup on board than I expected (looking at you, wardroom).
Beyond mere commands and practices, however, I’ve discovered that my role on this ship is different, too. Because SL2 is a training vessel, there are a lot more positions, from PO (petty officer) to engineering officer. As an intern, I don’t fall perfectly into any of these categories, and so I find myself doing a vast variety of tasks, from learning how to do logs using a compass and a paper map like a senior watch officer to hauling lines with the rest of the trainees to even helping out the cook with making some delicious dishes (and reminding him to add seasoning). Wherever I am, though, I’m always met with immense kindness and boundless enthusiasm.
It’s in this environment that we’ve t
raveled across Georgian Bay to meet up with SL2’s sister ships, Playfair and Pathfinder. From there, we traveled to a tiny tucked-away area called Baie Fine. Baie Fine is easily one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been, with fir trees perched upon rocks towering above us as stunning blue-green water glittered below. There, we hiked through the trees and over mossy rocks until we reached the perfectly preserved Topaz Lake and cliff-jumped for hours, swimming around in the clear blue water and climbing up the white cliffs, sometimes holding on with nothing more than our fingertips and a knee crammed into a crevice, just to jump down again and again.
Upon leaving Georgian Bay, however, we crossed the North Channel and instantly encountered unfavorable winds. I spent that night watch not just with my watch but with the rest of the crew as we all heaved over the side, sea spray slapping us as we went along. For once, I was glad to not be able to see, because I know that the six foot seas that were drenching our bow would’ve unnerved me.
Yet as the sun rose, the winds died, and after that experience I feel prepared for almost anything. We set off across Lake Superior tomorrow, and I can only look forward to what’s to come.
You can follow along with Katie and the Tall Ships America team on Instagram and Facebook @tallshipsamerica. You can follow St. Lawrence II @tallshipsl2 and at www.tallshipexpeditions.com . Photo credits Katie Moore.
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